Emailing from Moscow railway station

Arrived in Moscow at 630 this morning, beds on the train are like rock but they are 2nd class. We had 2 delightful people in our cabin, 1 Gregory(pronounced Gre. Goary) and the 4 th person in the cabin was Katya.

Ian, Gregory & Katya on the train from Pskov to Moscow

Ian, Gregory & Katya on the train from Pskov to Moscow

She had just got married on 23 August and was back in Pskov after sorting out change of name and getting new identity documents and passport. Her English was impeccable and his did not exist, so just like Ian and I.

The conversation was very easy and Ian had a lot of practice with his Russian. Katya was able to help him with words he did not know. She was taught English by an Irishman so had an interesting accent.

Red Square

Red Square

We went off to red square after

Red Square

Red Square

putting our luggage into storage, had

Red Square

Red Square

some breakfast and then returned to the station (the one next door to where we arrived – there are 3 all together). We tried to find somewhere for a shower but no luck, guess we stay dirty and just have a bird bath on the train to Perm. We leave here at 1400 and get to the destination at
1000 tomorrow midday local time). Will be a long ride so our bums are likely to be sure as it is again 2nd class but hopefully we will meet some nice people.
Temperature a bit warm, my jacket has been off all day – about 12 when we arrived this morning. We expect to quieten down from the crowd as we head further east which will be good after 3 very busy days in Peters.

Night train from Pskov to Moscow

At Pskov Passenger Vokzal, our heroes waited with the sad crowd in the sitting hall for the train. As there was only one train at that time (the next from St Petersburg to Riga was at midnight) it was safe to assume all were going to Moscow. Among the crowd there was a youthful man having an animated and joyful conversation on an old Nokia mobile phone, which he held with difficulty because of the handcuffs he was wearing. Occasionally he made comments to his captors, two large athletic and well-groomed men, sitting opposite. It seemed a contradiction that the only happy man should be a prisoner. Shortly the train hauled by a heavy diesel locomotive pulled into the station. It was still moving when Boris and Timofei made their way to platform 2. Soon carriage 8 appeared, drew level, and went by. They scurried along the platform to where the carriage stopped, and waited. Eventually their tickets and passports were checked and they climbed up a ladder onto the train. Places 005 and 006 were found in kupe 2. They settled in for the journey. Soon they were joined in the compartment by Grigory, an older man, who could have been an artillery officer, and sporting a huge moustache. He occupied place 007. Boris engaged him in conversation in Russian. He was going to Moscow for a holiday. Just before the train departed Pskov, all were joined by agent Katyushka. She was a slim built tall blonde with a pretty face and a charming smile. She introduced herself, and came right out to say she is an agent of the Poultry Production Authority (a euphemism for the Egg Marketing Board), and was responsible for the transportation of chooks (fowls) in the western region. At this point Boris and Timofei started to panic. Had they been found out? Had Katyushka been placed in the compartment to spy on them? After a little polite conversation, our heroes made a tactical move to the restaurant wagon. There they dined on bitter soup and rye bread, and hatched a plan.They would be retired kangaroo farmers on a fact finding mission to the Soviet Union, traveling across Russia and China. (Not too bright! The SU has long gone.). Upon return to the compartment the stories began. They related the story of the huge drought of 2007 where stock were depleted to a new low, and had it not been for weeds growing around a place called The Lodge, their stocks would have been eradicated. Also they told of the menace of drop bears.  At this time Grigory had assessed that this was all a load of compost and to the surprise of Boris and Timofei he contributed tales of his own. Was he trying to prove there could be bigger liars in Russia than in Australia?After a discussion of current news events between all, it was agreed that the works of fiction could be ascribed to both sides. While Grigory had a tactical victory, Katyushka was pleased to be invested with the Order of the Koala (and they gave one to Grigory too). After dropping off to sleep, with dreams of kangaroos chasing sheep, all too soon the conductor was banging on the door to advise of impending arrival at Moscow Leningradsky Vokzal. With cups of tea, this event closed. And all said farewell at the station.

Pskov 8-9 Sep & more

The bus from St Petersburg

The bus we caught from Peters to Pskov

The bus we caught from Peters to Pskov

arrived in Pskov by simply becoming part of the traffic on the main street, where the flow was not very heavy but it was Constant. Before our heroes realised the situation the bus had gone well past where they should have alighted. The driver agreed to drop them at a place where it was convenient to find a taxi. They crossed the main road to a parking area where two taxis were waiting.  The driver of the first grabbed their bags and shoved them in the front seat. He indicated that both should get in the back seat from the right side. Boris slid across, but had to climb over a large 12 volt battery to get seated. The driver went about trying to start the vehicle. Boris had illusions of him getting out and hitting the engine in strategic places with a large hammer or an oversized shifting spanner. Finally the engine farted and all were on their way.

While Boris has illusions of speaking Russian, the driver could not comprehend any description of the hotel or the street. It is strange that the hotel name is only in English – The Old Estate Hotel & Spa.

Hotel at Pskov

Hotel at Pskov

Finally the driver was shown the phone number and he rang the hotel for instructions. Soon he was a happy fellow and switched from confused taxist to a tourism salesman selling the virtues and talking endlessly about the sights of Pskov.  The fare was 150 rubles. Boris and Timofei were surprised they had not been ripped off.

At dinner that night our heroes were the only patrons in the hotel restaurant. Perhaps all of Pskov had known Timofei and Boris would be present and it was wise to stay away. The meal ended with a grand cheese platter. It consisted of an aged cheddar, something like an edam, a camembert and a blue brie – it was definitely blue and definitely soft. Some were skewered with plastic toothpicks. With the cheeses were nuts and fruits. The waiter, Denis, explained an exotic fruit, appearing to be an orange gooseberry, was a physalis. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physalis)
Denis tried his best in all things. He was a pleasant fellow. And he
struggled a little with Timofei’s English and marginally less with Boris’
Russian.

After breakfast (there were two other people in the restaurant) on the
following, the duo checked out of the hotel and proceeded to find the
landmarks in the town of Pskov. The Mirozhsky Monastery was illusive and according to Timofei would be just around the next corner. Alas it was not. His compass was broken. (It was at the other end of town, in the
opposite direction).

Ian on the parapet

Ian on the parapet

Thankfully the Krom (old kremlin in Pskov) was obvious and easier to find. It is situated in a manicured park, across a creek, and beside the Velikaya (Great) River. It provided good defences in the past, especially against the Teutonic Knights. Restoration works had commenced in 1952 and are continuing. Timofei

It was 1952

It was 1952

had to tell Boris that 1952 was the year, not the hour. Boris remarked that they had not done much. Some people!

The duo made their way around the grounds of the Krom and up onto the battlements. At the kremlin office, Boris made enquiries about a toilet, and was pointed to the kino theatre next door.

For the sum of 20 rubles, he could make use of a half-height cubicle, affording no privacy, nor protection from Timofei’s camera.
Upon completion of their duties, they made their way to a cafe, where tea could be bought for 40 rubles.
After the comfort of the pause, and being entertained by an Italian movie dubbed into Russian, and without need of dialog, they left to explore the town further, especially across the River Velikaya. They saw shopping centres, specialty shops, strangely decorated cafes, churches and more churches, and a post office where it was not possible to get any service.  They had roamed far and needed to get a bus back.
Boris alarmed an old woman when he asked which bus they could catch to Ploshad Lenina. Finally a No. 17 arrived, an everyone with the aid of elbows got on the bus. The woman ticket collector advised that Ploshad Lenina would be three stops, and the fare was 18 rubles each. When the bus lurched to a halt at the next stop, the ticket collector advised that it was two further.  A Russian paratroop sergeant, dressed in camouflage uniform but displaying all insignia as well as wearing a tightly fitting powder blue beret, standing at the back, observed Boris and Timofei with suspicion. Little did he know that his suspicions were well-founded.

At the bridge over the Velikaya, the bus waited for sometime. However, the paratrooper has made his way through the crowd, and he was adjacent to the exit door. The ticket collector advised that is was next stop. The bus came to a stop opposite Ploshad Lenina. The paratrooper was first off and then waited at the pedestrian crossing for the lights to change, and then made it to the bus stop with more time to wait.
Boris and Timofei leisurely returned to the hotel, stopping occasionally to look at archeological digs or burned out buildings.

Dog found in Perm

Dog found in Perm

They had time to kill.

Pskov

Nice hotel here in Pskov,

Ian catching up

Ian catching up

The bus we caught from Peters to Pskov

The bus we caught from Peters to Pskov

have the opportunity to complete the drying off  the washing that missed out last night in Peters. Seems to be a general lack of touristy information down at the lobby – even unable to tell us the time to get to the railway station for tomorrow. Had some fresh vegetables with dinner last night and that was a very pleasant change – they do seem hard to find. We have noticed that toilets are just impossible to find so that always keeps us on our toes – very different to back home where we have lots of vegetables AND toilets

... And when you find one, you might have company!!!

… And when you find one, you might have company!!!

.

Went to try and find the monastery just down the road from the hotel- it had a good write up and was very old. It was all locked up when we arrived so headed off to the Kremlin which

Pskov Kremlin

Pskov Kremlin

was really quite spectacular.

River beside Pskov Kremlin

River beside Pskov Kremlin

Heading

River beside Kremlin at Pskov

River beside Kremlin at Pskov

off to Pskov station for the night train (Taxi with tip thrown in, $5 for a 10 minute ride – not quite sure how they live on that although many things are quite cheap). Town & people are pleasant and quite helpful when trying to catch buses.