Leaving Russia

Escape from Russia
Collectively the Russian people were glad to see our dynamic duo depart. Many people had gathered at Vladivostok airport to witness the occasion. It did not occur to them that the people may have been there for their own travel arrangements.


Tim and Ian got the Aeroexpress from Vladivostok Vokzal to the airport. The trip cost 200 rubles each, much cheaper than a taxi, and safer. The trip took 48 minutes, which was a lot faster than the previous taxi ride. It was interesting the carriage had few occupants.
The Aeroexpress appears to be a similar model train to those in Moscow. It is functional and has a moderate amount of comfort.
The last train from Vladivostok runs at 8:04 PM, so we had a while to wait at Vladivostok airport. The new facilities at the airport made the waiting comfortable. (Ian last passed through Vladivostok in August 2012, when the facilities were very Soviet)
By chance we were at the front of the queue to check in, so we got the pick of seating. We met our new best friend, Eason Qu, a medical student. He was happy to find someone speaking English, after spending 20 days in Russia. Tim resisted telling him about Boris.
As it was Saturday (27 Sep) there had been many weddings. Tim sat next to a couple going on their honeymoon, we suppose. The bride was still wearing her veil. And further forward on the plane were another couple, where the bride had flowers in her hair.
Thankfully the flight was relatively short (2:30 hours), the processing through immigration was swift, the wait for luggage was moderate, but then the drive into Beijing was lengthy. Roadworks on the Airport Expressway made it a parking lot.
Upon arrival at the Novotel, just down the street from Beijing (main) Railway Station, we were to witness the desk clerk having a heated argument with another customer, while we were being checked in. Oh, for goodness sake! We just want to get to bed. And we did, eventually.

 

Khabarovsk etc

In the shadow of Graf Nikolai Murav’yov-Amurckiy
In Khabarovsk, the main street is called Ulitsa Muravyova-Amurskogo. It changes name to Karla Marxa at Lenin Square, and of course, there is a Lenin Street.There is a statue of Muravyov-Amurskiy in the park adjacent to the regional museum (Muzei im N.I. Grodekova). [It was first erected in 1891, removed and replaced by Lenin in 1929, and restored to its position in 1989] Boris and Timofei first noticed this fellow, when they fleetingly touched 5000 ruble note. They of course went behind his back and went into the museum.And upon leaving the museum, they found the United Russia headquarters.

Contrasts

Khabarovsk – contrasts
When Boris and Timofei arrived from Irkutsk, it was the middle of the night, but with 6:00 AM on the clock. The taxi driver had relieved 2000 rubles from them for 600 ruble trip. Mafia taxis! They were welcomed at Sapporo Hotel by a very sleepy receptionist (she had been working approx 24 hours straight). As they had not slept on the plane, they caught a little sleep, until midday. Upon looking at the view from the window, they saw possibly a less desirable side of Russia.a20140923_134127

However, they found a gem in the Tsum (ЦУМ) store in the main street.  Here there are richly decorated windows on the staircase.

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Baikal ozero – “nature lake”

I believe we had a rare opportunity to visit Lake Baikal.
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It should be ranked as a Wonder.
Well, with 20% of the world’s unfrozen surface fresh water, with its natural beauty, with difficult to access, and with few people other than Russians and Koreans, it is a wonder.
It is the deepest lake in the world: 1600 metres. It is in an ancient rift valley. It is probably 25 million years old.
We got there after an adventurous bus ride from Irkutsk.
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The driver has two speeds: and it was go more often than stop. Overtaking was more a matter of luck than calculation.
Eventually we arrived at the village of Listvyanka at the “mouth” of the Angara River. (The Angara actually drains the lake, flowing into the Yenesei and the Arctic Ocean.)
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It is a one-street town, well with a few side streets. The main road is Gorky Street, and there is no Lenin Street. This must be a mistake. How will the Soviet Union survive?
We did the obligatory walk to the market, the purchase of souvenirs, the boat ride on the lake,
and then the Baikal Museum.
I must acknowledge the museum. It was well set out with a range of displays, including an aquarium housing Baikal seals. These are fascinating balls of blubber.
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On the way back to the centre of Listvyanka, we hired a taxi (150 rubles),
and the driver saw himself as a tourism ambassador, and included in his commentary identification of the mafia homes (above).
The ride back to Irkutsk on the bus was more extreme than the previous. It was an 18-seater bus, but at one time may have held 25 or more.
While the driver tempered his speed to match the load, his attention was not always on the road. We escaped this thrill ride at a shopping centre in the centre of Irkutsk (to make use of the free toilets) and made our way back to the hotel.
A day to remember in many ways!

.. and the cockatoo said nothing

An encounter at the Zoopark
It is interesting how in the Russian language the word, zoopark, is pronounced.   They voice both o vowels individually with emphasis on the first. So it is pronounced “z-oh-ah-park”.   When Boris met the taxist outside the hotel, he firstly mistakenly used the Engrish pronunciation, then realised his mistake.   Finally the taxist took the dynamic duo to the Zoopark.  They had received informations that a cockatoo would tell them something.  After Timofei upset the old woman in the Kassa, by giving her 1000 ruble note – this is a country without change for moderate size notes – so it seems – they entered the park.  They made their way to many exhibits.  The European bison were extremely dangerous, 2014-09-18 11.35.25  and the keeper was more dangerous and less impressed when Timofei approached too close to the enclosure.  It seems that his standard answer of “ya ne govoroo par russki” is not being understood nor well received.  English is not his strong language either.  When they saw one of Santa’s reindeer, they were circumspect. a20140918_114855 They did not mention they had consumed one of his cousins. (Alas Kevin Radd was no more – only jerky).  The oryx kept pointing their behinds towards the observers. a20140918_115952 Maybe they had good sense.  Timofei and Boris were grateful after they saw the stork had been imprisoned a20140918_130304 for delivering so many babies – doubt whether this fairy-tale translates to Russian folk-lore.  Finally they met the cockatoo.a20140918_130959  It was a bloody bird! How could it tell them a coded message.

This spy business is fraught with many mis-informations.

Anthropology will never be the same again

Anthropologists???
Boris and Timofei will pretend to be anything. 20140917_113123

Now they are studying the eskimos. 20140917_113744

Not being politically correct they wouldn’t know a Ket from a Yakut, let alone an Entsa. 20140917_11355920140917_113437

They studied the exhibits in the Krasnoyarsk Krai Regional Museum. 20140917_11382620140917_113158

Perhaps they got an education.20140917_113925

20140917_114752  The world awaits this positive outcome.

 

The spy story begins

The great spy novel: The Least Wanted Men.

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Boris:   Timofei, I know we are close to FSB Headquarters, but do you think they have installed a camera here or is it a funny looking rivet in a cement wall. Perhaps we should be careful about what we say.
Timofei:   Da. Ze walls have ears and eyes here in the James Shark Pub. We will be very careful. We will not give away any secrets, especially the recipe to womabt stew.Think of the damage the FSB could do with that informations, comrade.
Andrei/Andrew:   Hello. My name is Andrei, err, Andrew. I am your contact, err, waiter. Would you like some service? Perhaps some food? We have reindeer jerky (don’t tell Santa Claus – it is one her slow reindeers; her name was Kevin Radd) and we have nuts. {Stage whisper: the nuts will not be alone} I recommend the good James Shark Beer. It is our local beer. No. Not brewed in this pub. It is brewed in a zavod in this city. Perhaps you would like some more food. No. That is not a code word. Perhaps you would like some Shashlik. We have very good selection. I agree. Pork and chicken will be very good.

Arriving in Krasnoyarsk

 

Boris caught with an old friend today.

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Some locals

Krasnoyarsk Bokzal

Krasnoyarsk Bokzal

Our home for last 33 hours

Our home for last 33 hours

He had arrived in Krasnoyarsk and had to introduce Timofei to his acquaintances.

This fellow resides on the corner of Lomonsova and Dekabristov and has been there for some time.2014SepTim-2

Boris claimed that he was a good judge of vodka. Timofei observed that his dog was relieving himself on the fellow’s leg.
The dog is a good judge of locations. 20140916_195126

2013May-2

Perm to Yekat

The cafe at Perm 2 vokzal is basic. If you want tea, water is poured into a glass with a teabag. If you want coffee water is poured into a glass with a mystery beige powder. Timofei is still getting used to Russia. There are many surprises in store. And then they had to rush to platform (Путь) 4 – not an easy task against the oncoming swarm leaving the train.Our heroes left Perm at 11:45. The carriage was a little dated, however, it was clean due to the efforts of the conductor. During the journey she mopped it out.They sought out refreshment in the restaurant wagon, but at 1:00 pm they were told that it was zakrit. This had to be good for the diet and waistlines. Boris and Timofei were in a compartment with a talkative Russian fellow. He said, hello and goodbye, and nothing more.
The change in seasons is occurring. Timofei noted the change in leaf colour as they progressed eastward. a20140913_151415 They traveled through birch forests which are turning orange and brown. A lovely sight.
The city of Yekaterinburg is quaint. The streets are well paved, but the footpaths are uneven. The buildings are a mix of new glass and concrete, a few soviet era buildings and some old wooden buildings. a20140913_161911
Timofei and Boris found a cafe (more a canteen), named Fork and Spoon (Вилка Ложка), serving a very cheap meal (475 rubles for both). a20140913_163357 They were proud that they are eating like the natives, standard Russian fare. They progressed to a patisserie for dessert and coffee. a20140913_191145 And on the way back to the hotel Timofei had to buy fruit from a kiosk (Boris did not feel that health conscious).
All is well as our heroes head east.

Chinese adventurers

Chinese adventurers going from Guangzhou to Paris.
As we stepped out of the hotel, we headed down a narrow street towards a green glass building. a20140913_155758 At that point we saw five new Chinese cars with distinctive registration plates. a20140913_160333 (Later we determined they were GAC Triumpchi GS5 five-door sport utility vehicles).  They looked good.
By the time Ian made it to the vehicles, Tim had well engaged them in conversation. They were a little surprised to find people speaking English in the depths of Russia. Ian greeted them with Ni Hao, and the smiles grew bigger. They helped him with his pronunciation of Wo shi oo-da-li-ra-yen. In a short time it was discovered they were traveling from Guangzhou to Paris. They were not totally aware of the route they had taken – each car had three drivers, and we guessed they had additional navigators. a20140913_160356 Before we could find out more, a minder got the drivers back to their tasks.  They certainly have set out on an adventure.

Kungur Ice Cave Adventure

Krasnov Travel – a good tour
We were met at our hotel in Perm by Mikhail (but introduced himself as Michael) and Valentina (who introduced herself as Tina). We were driven in a comfortable SUV (Mitsubishi Pajero) from Perm to the town of Kungur.

View of Kungar river

View of Kungar river

The sights of the town were covered: several churches and magnificent views of the Silva (Сылва) River. 20140912_095534 Tina gave a running commentary in perfect English as we went. She brought the town alive with historical stories and pointed out the significance of landmarks. The trip included a tour of the Kungur Ice Cave. This is an interesting geological formation. The tour of the cave was led by Olga, who pointed out in detail every grotto and rock and ice formation. The tour of the cave lasted 2 hours. We were well dressed in warm clothing for the tour, which is essential. The temperatures vary between -3C to +5C (26F to 41F).

Entrance to Kungar Cave

Entrance to Kungar Cave

Tour ended with a traditional Russian meal in the Stalagmit Hotel cafe adjacent to the cave (consisting of Russian salad, solyanka soup, cotlets with vegetables, and tarts).

Ian & Michael

Ian & Michael

Michael also supplies an invigorating ryumka of vodka to warm the participants after the cave. Michael and Tina provided a relaxed atmosphere where everyone felt welcome and looked after.

Night train from Pskov to Moscow

At Pskov Passenger Vokzal, our heroes waited with the sad crowd in the sitting hall for the train. As there was only one train at that time (the next from St Petersburg to Riga was at midnight) it was safe to assume all were going to Moscow. Among the crowd there was a youthful man having an animated and joyful conversation on an old Nokia mobile phone, which he held with difficulty because of the handcuffs he was wearing. Occasionally he made comments to his captors, two large athletic and well-groomed men, sitting opposite. It seemed a contradiction that the only happy man should be a prisoner. Shortly the train hauled by a heavy diesel locomotive pulled into the station. It was still moving when Boris and Timofei made their way to platform 2. Soon carriage 8 appeared, drew level, and went by. They scurried along the platform to where the carriage stopped, and waited. Eventually their tickets and passports were checked and they climbed up a ladder onto the train. Places 005 and 006 were found in kupe 2. They settled in for the journey. Soon they were joined in the compartment by Grigory, an older man, who could have been an artillery officer, and sporting a huge moustache. He occupied place 007. Boris engaged him in conversation in Russian. He was going to Moscow for a holiday. Just before the train departed Pskov, all were joined by agent Katyushka. She was a slim built tall blonde with a pretty face and a charming smile. She introduced herself, and came right out to say she is an agent of the Poultry Production Authority (a euphemism for the Egg Marketing Board), and was responsible for the transportation of chooks (fowls) in the western region. At this point Boris and Timofei started to panic. Had they been found out? Had Katyushka been placed in the compartment to spy on them? After a little polite conversation, our heroes made a tactical move to the restaurant wagon. There they dined on bitter soup and rye bread, and hatched a plan.They would be retired kangaroo farmers on a fact finding mission to the Soviet Union, traveling across Russia and China. (Not too bright! The SU has long gone.). Upon return to the compartment the stories began. They related the story of the huge drought of 2007 where stock were depleted to a new low, and had it not been for weeds growing around a place called The Lodge, their stocks would have been eradicated. Also they told of the menace of drop bears.  At this time Grigory had assessed that this was all a load of compost and to the surprise of Boris and Timofei he contributed tales of his own. Was he trying to prove there could be bigger liars in Russia than in Australia?After a discussion of current news events between all, it was agreed that the works of fiction could be ascribed to both sides. While Grigory had a tactical victory, Katyushka was pleased to be invested with the Order of the Koala (and they gave one to Grigory too). After dropping off to sleep, with dreams of kangaroos chasing sheep, all too soon the conductor was banging on the door to advise of impending arrival at Moscow Leningradsky Vokzal. With cups of tea, this event closed. And all said farewell at the station.

Sapsan – Moscow to St Petersburg

Comrades!Be alert. It has been reported Boris and Timofei have been seen in the vicinity of Leningradsky Vokzal.These photos were taken on platform 7 adjacent to the Sapsan train 758 destined for St Petersburg.

Tim getting on the Sapsan

Tim getting on the Sapsan

Ian about to get on the Sapsan

Ian about to get on the Sapsan

It is further reported that our duo boarded the train, carriage (wagon) 4 and occupied seats 55 and 56.During the journey Timofei had to restrain Boris. He had a great desire to do harm to the child in the seat behind. It is believed physical violence is not appropriate even when the child has been determined to be a little shit. Kicking the seat, throwing tantrums and abusing his mother may even make him John McEnroe. However, his arm lacked the skill of a tennis player.

Timofei observed the train travelling at great speed. The train arrived on-time at the Moscovsky Vokzal in St Petersburg. All is well. No horrid children were hurt in the making of this film.

Remembering Borodino

4 Sep 2014: Moscow, Thursday: Borodino Panorama  

The Battle of Borodino, 7 September 1812, was perhaps second only in importance to Waterloo during the Napoleonic War. As many as 80,000 in total lost their lives in a single day at Borodino, a field near Mozhaisk, west of Moscow. Fili, now a suburb of Moscow, was a farming community in 1812. Kutuzov and his council met in a farmer’s hut there to determine the fate of Moscow and the course of the war.
(The farmer, nor Boris nor Timofei were invited to attend).
The Borodino Panorama is a memorial and museum, located at Fili.It is set on Kutuzov Boulevard, a busy arterial road in modern Moscow.At the entrance is an equestrian statue, honouring Kutuzov. It is fitting that it also represents soldiers and peasants, who contributed to the Russian war effort.

After passing through the ever-present security screening, our travellers were directed to the Kassa. They parted with 200 rubles each and were permitted entry. On the first floor there were extensive displays of memorabilia, uniforms, equipment, maps and battle plans. On the second floor is the panorama of the battlefield.
And it is spectacular. After returning to the first floor, our travellers departed.
(And they voiced the belief that they could have helped. Such delusion!)

Park Pobedy in Moscow.

The Great Patriotic War – Великая Отечественная Война
Sometime things are too serious for Boris and Timofei to be seen or with which to be related.
Tim and Ian went to the war memorial in Moscow – Park Pobedy – Парк Победы
While it commemorates more than one war, the emphasis is on the Great Patriotic War 1941-45.
It is a moving tribute to the contribution of the Soviet Union to the Second World War.

Dachau – never again!

DACHAU, 4 September 2010.

There is a memorial within the site that says: NEVER AGAIN.

Neither Viktor nor Boris nor Hobson went to Dachau. This story is too important to be taken lightly.

When I arrived in Munich we had flown over forests, fields and villages. The scenery was remarkably green. It was in stark contrast to walk through the main gate of the Jurhaus in Dachau. This barren scene was a mixture of white and grey. It was a dirty white. Also the sky was a severe grey, mostly because it had been raining all morning, but also it was highlighted by our sombre mood.

No one goes to Dachau out of delight. I went to learn. A few went to remember. Many had gone in a state of terror.

Every smile was out of understanding a shared acknowledgement of the terrible history. Every word was spoken in hushed tones. Every action was a free movement to search for reasons. For twelve years no one had gone to Dachau out of free will.

When entering the gates during that time, the prisoners were confronted with the irony of the sign, “Arbeit Macht Frei – Work makes you free” None were free to enter and none could leave. They were compelled to make the journey, and at the gate surrendered their freedom, their dignity and their identity.

From that point, all had to work or die.

Now, just beyond the gate is a wall that marks the edge of the parade ground. On the wall is a message written in French, English, German and Russian: “May the example of those who were exterminated here between 1933 – 1945 because they resisted Nazism help to unite the living for the defence of peace and freedom and in respect of their fellow men.”

This wall marked a continuation of the terror. Beyond the wall were the existing inmates, spearated from the new by a measurable distance, but united with them in an uncertain and immeasurable future.

The construction of the entry route was designed to instill further terror. When prisoners were herded from the train, they shuffled through the gate and into the maintenance building. The route had several turns to ensure no one could see ahead, and it added to personal confusion and an overwhelming sense of fear.

In the administration hall the prisoners shuffled forward to tables where they were processed. The clerks seated at the tables were prisoners too. The line of tables disproportionately divided the hall with one-third of the area allocated to prisoners and two-thirds behind the tables occupied by a few SS overseers. On the opposite wall was a sign with 30 cm high letters: Rauchen verboten (Smoking forbidden). It was in this room the prisoners were stripped of all clothes and possessions. It was a cruel irony to tell they could not smoke, as all possessions had been taken.

Now the building is a museum, called the documentation centre. On this day we walked slowly through the displays marking the history of this place, from establishment to liberation. I remember seeing a mix of posters depicting the many nationalities and beliefs of prisoners.

The population had included more then Jews. There were Gypsies, French, Italians, Czechs, English and Russians. Other groups included communists, trade union officials, priests and bishops, and any opponent of the Nazi regime.

On a poster there was the story of a Ukrainian soldier who had been captured. He had been sent to Dachau for escaping. The information on the poster showed his date of birth. There was no indication of his release or demise. Had he survived Dachau, he also faced a cruel fate upon his return to the Soviet Union.

Outside we went to the cell block. This building contained 92 cells. Some were large, and set aside for special prisoners, such as Georg Esler, who had attempted to assassinate Hitler in a Munich beer hall. He had three cells. Some clergy had two cells each, however, most had one. Another form of cruelty was presented as standing cells, where a single cell was divided into six, allowing the inmate to stand only.

From the cell block we waled to the crematorium, an area screened from the general prison population, and known as Barrack X. The complex contained several ovens and a gas chamber (labelled as a bathroom).

Records and evidence show that the gas chambers was not used extensively. The SS had other means. Some prisoners were hanged in front of the ovens. Others were shot on a firing range, in front of a blood drain and beside the cinder pile from the ovens. Again the process was designed to maximize terror.

When we left the site, everyone was subdued, but as we drew closer to Munich the mood lifted.

I walked on Marienplatz and had a meal in a cafe. It was good to be free.

Ian